Touring The Top-End
... an exploration of walled villages, market towns and temples in the northernmost part of the New Territories with a side trip through the hill-
side cemeteries and vegetable farms of the border country.
Having picked up our bicycles near Tai Po Market Railway Station, we start the ride by traversing this ancient centre of trade before reaching
and following the Lam Tsuen River upstream, pausing briefly at a small Buddhist temple.
Heading north parallel to the tracks of the old Kowloon-Canton Railway, we soon find ourselves riding on (relatively) narrow concrete paths
between newly revitalised vegetable fields and nurseries.
Approaching Fan Ling, we find our way along a maze of bicycle paths to reach the ancient Hong Kong home of the P’aang clan, the 700-year-
old walled village of Fan Ling Wai. Checking out its narrow alleys gives us a chance to stretch our legs a little.
There is also time for a brief refreshment break, before we continue northwards past the small Pak Tai Temple, a couple of interesting old
schools and the old Sheung Shui Police Station to reach Sheung Shui Wai, a.k.a. Sheung Shui Heung. Surrounded by a genuine moat
constructed in 1646, the walled village of Sheung Shui Wai is mostly ignored by tourists who head straight for the impressive Liu Man Shek
Tong Ancestral Hall. We, however, will grab this opportunity to get a look around inside the walls, before visiting the LMSTAH built in 1751…
Back in the saddle, we ride on the side-walk for about 200 metres to avoid the China-bound container trucks before taking to the low
cemetery hills along the Closed Boarder Area. The mildly undulating quiet country road makes for a great break from the city-riding we have
endured so far.
Beyond the cemeteries, we follow the Ng Tung River and the vegetable fields along its banks to reach the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail. The
name Lung Yeuk Tau was derived from the mountain range nearby called Lung Yeuk Ling (Mountain of the Leaping Dragon).
The Tangs of Lung Yeuk Tau rank as one of the "Five Great Clans" in the New Territories. They originated from Ji Shui of Jiang Xi province and
have the strongest claim to the royal descent among their fellow clansmen, for they are the descendants of the eldest son of the princess of
the Southern Song dynasty (1127-1279). When the princess took refuge in the south, she was married to Tang Wai-Kap of Kam Tin. The
eldest son of the royal couple moved to Lung Yeuk Tau at the end of the Yuan dynasty. As the clan prospered, it further branched out to the
neighbouring area, establishing the present-day "Five Wais and Six Tsuens" within a few hundred years.
Many traditional Chinese buildings and structures along the heritage trail such as the Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall and the Tin Hau Kung,
together with the walls and entrance gates and the residences of some of the walled villages still retain their historic appearance.
We shall explore the trail from end to end, before turning south towards the market town of Luen Wo Hui and, later, back to Tai Po. Just
before returning our bikes, we drop in at the Old District Office and the Old Police Station. The latter was built in 1899 at the site where the
British flag hoisting ceremony was held in 1899 to mark the official take-over of the New Territories…
... an exploration of walled villages, market towns and temples in the northernmost part of the New Territories with a side trip through the hill-
side cemeteries and vegetable farms of the border country.
Having picked up our bicycles near Tai Po Market Railway Station, we start the ride by traversing this ancient centre of trade before reaching
and following the Lam Tsuen River upstream, pausing briefly at a small Buddhist temple.
Heading north parallel to the tracks of the old Kowloon-Canton Railway, we soon find ourselves riding on (relatively) narrow concrete paths
between newly revitalised vegetable fields and nurseries.
Approaching Fan Ling, we find our way along a maze of bicycle paths to reach the ancient Hong Kong home of the P’aang clan, the 700-year-
old walled village of Fan Ling Wai. Checking out its narrow alleys gives us a chance to stretch our legs a little.
There is also time for a brief refreshment break, before we continue northwards past the small Pak Tai Temple, a couple of interesting old
schools and the old Sheung Shui Police Station to reach Sheung Shui Wai, a.k.a. Sheung Shui Heung. Surrounded by a genuine moat
constructed in 1646, the walled village of Sheung Shui Wai is mostly ignored by tourists who head straight for the impressive Liu Man Shek
Tong Ancestral Hall. We, however, will grab this opportunity to get a look around inside the walls, before visiting the LMSTAH built in 1751…
Back in the saddle, we ride on the side-walk for about 200 metres to avoid the China-bound container trucks before taking to the low
cemetery hills along the Closed Boarder Area. The mildly undulating quiet country road makes for a great break from the city-riding we have
endured so far.
Beyond the cemeteries, we follow the Ng Tung River and the vegetable fields along its banks to reach the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail. The
name Lung Yeuk Tau was derived from the mountain range nearby called Lung Yeuk Ling (Mountain of the Leaping Dragon).
The Tangs of Lung Yeuk Tau rank as one of the "Five Great Clans" in the New Territories. They originated from Ji Shui of Jiang Xi province and
have the strongest claim to the royal descent among their fellow clansmen, for they are the descendants of the eldest son of the princess of
the Southern Song dynasty (1127-1279). When the princess took refuge in the south, she was married to Tang Wai-Kap of Kam Tin. The
eldest son of the royal couple moved to Lung Yeuk Tau at the end of the Yuan dynasty. As the clan prospered, it further branched out to the
neighbouring area, establishing the present-day "Five Wais and Six Tsuens" within a few hundred years.
Many traditional Chinese buildings and structures along the heritage trail such as the Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall and the Tin Hau Kung,
together with the walls and entrance gates and the residences of some of the walled villages still retain their historic appearance.
We shall explore the trail from end to end, before turning south towards the market town of Luen Wo Hui and, later, back to Tai Po. Just
before returning our bikes, we drop in at the Old District Office and the Old Police Station. The latter was built in 1899 at the site where the
British flag hoisting ceremony was held in 1899 to mark the official take-over of the New Territories…
| ... exploring Hong Kong's other side... |
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