TOURING THE TOP-END
... an exploration of walled villages, market towns and temples in the northernmost part of the New Territories with a side trip through the hill-
side cemeteries and vegetable farms of the border country...
It is just a brief stroll from Fan Ling station to the market town of Luen Wo Hui, where we pick up our bicycles for the day. Once in the saddle,
we pause briefly at the Sam Shing Temple before reaching the ancient Hong Kong home of the P’aang clan, the 700-year-old walled village of
Fan Ling Wai.
Having walked its narrow alleys, we continue northwards through the North District Park and past the old Sheung Shui Police Station to reach
Sheung Shui Wai, a.k.a. Sheung Shui Heung. Surrounded by a genuine moat constructed in 1646, the walled village of Sheung Shui Wai is
mostly ignored by tourists who head straight for the impressive Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall. We, however, will grab this opportunity to
get a look around inside the walls, before visiting the LMSTAH built in 1751…
Back in the saddle, we ride on the side-walk for about 200 metres to avoid the China-bound container trucks before taking to the low
cemetery hills along the Closed Border Area. The mildly undulating quiet country road makes for a great break from the city-riding we have
endured so far.
Beyond the cemeteries, we follow the Ng Tung River and the vegetable fields along its banks to reach the northern end of the Lung Yeuk Tau
Heritage Trail. The name Lung Yeuk Tau was derived from the mountain range nearby called Lung Yeuk Ling (Mountain of the Leaping Dragon).
Many traditional Chinese buildings and structures along the heritage trail, together with the walls and entrance gates and the residences of
some of the walled villages, still retain their historic appearance. While this ride will explore most of the trail, we will do it in stages, so our
first visit is to the villages of Siu Hang Tsuen and San Wai.
Continuing eastwards, we pass the barracks of the People's Liberation Army near Kwan Tei. Then we make our way through a typical New
Territories scenery, where vegetable farms, nurseries and village houses mingle effortlessly with the ubiquitous corrugated iron fences of
scrap-yards and light industries.
Suddenly, we find ourselves at the very elaborate Wun Chuen Sin Koon, a Taoist temple worshipping Master Lu Chun-Yang. The temple’s
design resembles that of ancient palaces and its beautifully landscaped gardens are interspersed with lotus ponds, traditional bridges and
exquisite carvings. Should there be interest amongst the group, we will even take lunch at the temple (vegetarian food only).
After lunch we head for the old Cheung Shan Monastery at Miu Keng which marks the eastern end of our ride. Then the riding becomes a little
more continuous as as we ride from village to village along quiet backroads and village paths. Near Hok Tau Wai, our only real climb of the
day sees us gain almost 60 metres in altitude in one go…
Safely down on the other side, the final few kilometres of the ride are virtually all flat. This is also where we cross the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage
Trail, so we might well check out a walled village or two before returning to the bike shop in Luen Wo Hui…
... an exploration of walled villages, market towns and temples in the northernmost part of the New Territories with a side trip through the hill-
side cemeteries and vegetable farms of the border country...
It is just a brief stroll from Fan Ling station to the market town of Luen Wo Hui, where we pick up our bicycles for the day. Once in the saddle,
we pause briefly at the Sam Shing Temple before reaching the ancient Hong Kong home of the P’aang clan, the 700-year-old walled village of
Fan Ling Wai.
Having walked its narrow alleys, we continue northwards through the North District Park and past the old Sheung Shui Police Station to reach
Sheung Shui Wai, a.k.a. Sheung Shui Heung. Surrounded by a genuine moat constructed in 1646, the walled village of Sheung Shui Wai is
mostly ignored by tourists who head straight for the impressive Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall. We, however, will grab this opportunity to
get a look around inside the walls, before visiting the LMSTAH built in 1751…
Back in the saddle, we ride on the side-walk for about 200 metres to avoid the China-bound container trucks before taking to the low
cemetery hills along the Closed Border Area. The mildly undulating quiet country road makes for a great break from the city-riding we have
endured so far.
Beyond the cemeteries, we follow the Ng Tung River and the vegetable fields along its banks to reach the northern end of the Lung Yeuk Tau
Heritage Trail. The name Lung Yeuk Tau was derived from the mountain range nearby called Lung Yeuk Ling (Mountain of the Leaping Dragon).
Many traditional Chinese buildings and structures along the heritage trail, together with the walls and entrance gates and the residences of
some of the walled villages, still retain their historic appearance. While this ride will explore most of the trail, we will do it in stages, so our
first visit is to the villages of Siu Hang Tsuen and San Wai.
Continuing eastwards, we pass the barracks of the People's Liberation Army near Kwan Tei. Then we make our way through a typical New
Territories scenery, where vegetable farms, nurseries and village houses mingle effortlessly with the ubiquitous corrugated iron fences of
scrap-yards and light industries.
Suddenly, we find ourselves at the very elaborate Wun Chuen Sin Koon, a Taoist temple worshipping Master Lu Chun-Yang. The temple’s
design resembles that of ancient palaces and its beautifully landscaped gardens are interspersed with lotus ponds, traditional bridges and
exquisite carvings. Should there be interest amongst the group, we will even take lunch at the temple (vegetarian food only).
After lunch we head for the old Cheung Shan Monastery at Miu Keng which marks the eastern end of our ride. Then the riding becomes a little
more continuous as as we ride from village to village along quiet backroads and village paths. Near Hok Tau Wai, our only real climb of the
day sees us gain almost 60 metres in altitude in one go…
Safely down on the other side, the final few kilometres of the ride are virtually all flat. This is also where we cross the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage
Trail, so we might well check out a walled village or two before returning to the bike shop in Luen Wo Hui…
| ... exploring Hong Kong's other side... |
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