Emma's Ridge (a.k.a. Cockscomb Ridge / Kai Kung Leng)
Rising majestically from the plains of the northern New Territories, the two volcanic ridges of Tai To Yan and Kai Kung Leng jointly make up the Lam Tsuen Country Park and, despite offering truly stunning panoramic views and a healthy heartbeat, host some of the least walked hiking trails in Hong Kong. Kai Kung Leng or Cockscomb Ridge, in particular, sees few visitors. A fact which can be squarely attributed to the obscurity of the trail heads...
Setting out from Fan Ling, our air-conditioned bus takes us through the old market towns of Luen Wo Hui and Sheung Shui before passing the manicured greens of the Hong Kong Golf Club and depositing us in the middle of nowhere...
After a short flight of concrete stairs, we turn onto a small dirt path. For the initial few hundred metres, the path is partially overgrown, but we soon find ourselves gaining altitude on windswept and boulder strewn grassy slopes. As we climb, we look back at the small farms on the plain below and across the valley towards the parallel Tai To Yan Ridge. Approaching the summit of Kwai Kok Shan, we make out Hong Kong's highest peak, Tai Mo Shan, off to the south while Shenzhen, in mainland China, spreads out below us to the north.
At the western end of the ridge, our gaze takes in historic Kam Tin, the Yuen Long Plain and the checkerboard that is the fish farms and shrimp ponds of Nam Sang Wai and Mai Po. All of which is boardered by the calm waters of Deep Bay.
The descent from Cockscomb Ridge is a little tricky in places, but we will take it easy and soon reach the fertile Pat Heung basin where rich vegetable plots share the space with Qing Dynasty buildings. Here we suggest ending the outing with lunch at an Indian restaurant in Kam Tin, before making our way back to the city by bus and train.