None of the hills have a name and with the highest peaking at just 290 metres, we won’t set any altitude records, but the sheer number of ups and downs makes this hike through Tai Lam Country Park quite a physical challenge all the same.
It is a short flat stroll from the bus stop to the trail head, but we should enjoy it as the climbing starts almost immediately we get into the country park. The reward for the efforts put into this initial climb and the walk along the ridge is spectacular views over Kam Tin, Pat Heung and the Yuen Long basin. If the weather is clear, the Mai Po wetlands, Shenzhen and Tai Mo Shan are also visible. This part of the country park still bears the scars of the heavy deforestation that Hong Kong suffered in the first half of the 20th century, but work is in progress to resolve the problem.
From the day’s highest point, we then descend along an undulating forest trail until we reach the Chat To river at the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir. Soon, however, we will be back into the woodlands with its birds, butterflies and – maybe – reptiles.
After a couple of kilometres through densely wooded valleys, we reach a well-maintained forest track. We will follow this for a few hundred metres only before reaching the turn-off for a small hidden valley - home to a gem of a watering hole.
Though it is the kind of place that you would prefer to keep to yourself, we will stop for an apéritif or two before following the contours of a couple of spectacular gorges on our way down to Sham Tseng, where tables have been reserved at one of the famous “roasted goose” restaurants.