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| ... exploring Hong Kong's other side... |
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Badlands, Orchards and Oysters
A "Stepless" Hike
Despite their uniqueness, the badlands of Hong Kong's northwestern New Territories see very few visitors. As they were for many years an
handed over to China, there has been very little target practise activity in this area, which in turn has allowed the public to slowly reclaim
these arid hills for recreational purposes.
Partially following an old military road, this "stepless" hike links the giant dormitory suburb of Tuen Mun with the quiet orchards and
vegetable farms on the shores of Deep Bay near Hong Kong's westernmost point.
After a long but very comfortable and scenic ride from the centre of Hong Kong island, we alight our air-conditioned double-decker bus near
the working class Tuen Mun neighbourhood of Leung King. Making our way through the housing blocks allows us a brief warm up and stretch
before we hit the only real climb of the day: A nameless pass north of Castle Peak.
It is a fair and occasionally steep and challenging climb but, as it follows an old military track, it has no steps to overcome. Gaining altitude,
we pass a small temple and the odd "illegal" garden, but the main feature of the western badlands is the relative sterility of the landscape.
Generally, Hong Kong features lush sub-tropical sceneries. Here, however, you will see mostly gravel-covered erosion-ravaged hill-sides.
Indeed, on hot summer days, one could be excused for believing to find oneself on the set of a Clint Eastwood spaghetti Western...
Continuing westwards and downhill, the usual lushness gradually returns. By the time we reach the hamlet of Ha Pak Nai, we find ourselves
on narrow concrete pathways between small orchards and vegetable farms. Crossing the village, we are treated to a display of produce
available at local wet markets.
After a brief stop at the village café, we continue northwards along the little-used coastal road to explore the orchards and fish ponds of the
area. While you won't actually have time to try your luck at catching lunch, we shall not be in a rush...
At Sheung Pak Nai, we flag down a minibus which will take us to Lau Fau Shan. Lau Fau Shan used to be famous as the oyster capital of Hong
Kong. There is still a reasonably sized oyster industry in the area, but doubts has recently been raised as to their quality. Nevertheless, we
will conclude this outing by visiting the old oyster mounds and by taking lunch at a local restaurant specializing in Chinese seafood.
A "Stepless" Hike
Despite their uniqueness, the badlands of Hong Kong's northwestern New Territories see very few visitors. As they were for many years an
handed over to China, there has been very little target practise activity in this area, which in turn has allowed the public to slowly reclaim
these arid hills for recreational purposes.
Partially following an old military road, this "stepless" hike links the giant dormitory suburb of Tuen Mun with the quiet orchards and
vegetable farms on the shores of Deep Bay near Hong Kong's westernmost point.
After a long but very comfortable and scenic ride from the centre of Hong Kong island, we alight our air-conditioned double-decker bus near
the working class Tuen Mun neighbourhood of Leung King. Making our way through the housing blocks allows us a brief warm up and stretch
before we hit the only real climb of the day: A nameless pass north of Castle Peak.
It is a fair and occasionally steep and challenging climb but, as it follows an old military track, it has no steps to overcome. Gaining altitude,
we pass a small temple and the odd "illegal" garden, but the main feature of the western badlands is the relative sterility of the landscape.
Generally, Hong Kong features lush sub-tropical sceneries. Here, however, you will see mostly gravel-covered erosion-ravaged hill-sides.
Indeed, on hot summer days, one could be excused for believing to find oneself on the set of a Clint Eastwood spaghetti Western...
Continuing westwards and downhill, the usual lushness gradually returns. By the time we reach the hamlet of Ha Pak Nai, we find ourselves
on narrow concrete pathways between small orchards and vegetable farms. Crossing the village, we are treated to a display of produce
available at local wet markets.
After a brief stop at the village café, we continue northwards along the little-used coastal road to explore the orchards and fish ponds of the
area. While you won't actually have time to try your luck at catching lunch, we shall not be in a rush...
At Sheung Pak Nai, we flag down a minibus which will take us to Lau Fau Shan. Lau Fau Shan used to be famous as the oyster capital of Hong
Kong. There is still a reasonably sized oyster industry in the area, but doubts has recently been raised as to their quality. Nevertheless, we
will conclude this outing by visiting the old oyster mounds and by taking lunch at a local restaurant specializing in Chinese seafood.
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